Sunday, June 23, 2013

Oskar 'the Kellner' (waiter - in English)

It is a typical June day here in Germany (Kallmünz to be exact!!).  It has been raining on and off throughout the day, but now – in the early evening – the sun is shining. I leave my pension, walk across the small, one lane bridge to one of the only two restaurants in the village. It appears to be  occupied by locals, no tourists, or other visitors. It is small with perhaps 5 tables inside and an equal number on the terrace (which overlooks the small river  - which is just a bit bigger than a burbling brook). The terrace tables are almost full… with couples and small families. I take a table and soon the waiter comes to take my drink order. As he brings my wine, my mobile phone starts to ring. I answer it. It is a colleague whom I met with earlier in the day. I know that the conversation will be long-winded so I interrupt to give the kellner (waiter) my order. The conversation goes on and on – interminably. I say very little. I just listen. My responses are mono-syllabic.  I am thoroughly embarrassed, chagrinned that I am talking on my mobile in a restaurant. I sense, perhaps it is only  my imagination, that the other patrons are totally annoyed. (I, myself, have been known to rant about such behavior when other people do it!!) The food arrives so I politely end the conversation and hang up.
the restaurant ...the terrace is the pink area under the flag

After dinner, I order a second glass of wine and ask for my bill. The kellner brings it. He stands – quietly - at the side of the table holding in his hand his traditional dark brown, slightly bulging, leather kellner’s purse. It looks surprisingly similar to my wallet. I pay the bill, he gives me change, places the money in his purse and leaves. I place my wallet on the table directly under my Blackberry which is also in a dark case. I continue to sit for a while enjoying my glass of wine and my view of the river.
Soon a small tow-headed, blonde boy – perhaps 5 years of age – approaches my table. He stands directly behind the chair which is directly across from me. He looks at me and smiles a bit, but does not say a word. I smile back and try to engage him in ‘rudimentary’ conversation. (Rudimentary, because I have not a clue what one says to a 5 year old … in either German or English!!)  He moves from behind the chair to the side of the table and reaches for my Blackberry. I say, “No, no honey, you cannot have that, it is mine.” He looks at me quizzically… (or is it an expression of annoyance[??]), … still not saying a word. In my mind, I am convinced he has overheard his parents discussing the rude American who was talking on the phone. I am sure of it!! I am sure someone has said my mobile (as well as all others in restaurants!!) should be confiscated! Our little tug of war over that thing in the black case continues for a minutte or two  - wordlessly on his part, a bit vociferously on mine.

Finally a blonde woman approaches. She bends down and speaks to the boy. Then she turns to me, apologizes and explains that Oskar likes to pretend he is a kellner (waiter). I smile, had I known that I would have given him a tip as payment for his attentiveness AND cute smile!!´

                                                    The other restaurant in Kallmünz 

Passau

I drove my car from Regensburg to Passau, where I boarded the river cruise. The drive to Passau was enlightening. As I drove along, I could see that the cars and their occupants were different than what I had seen in Germany. The cars were, in most cases, old and beat-up and the people did not look German. Since the road to Passau will also take you to the Czech border, I guessed they were Czechs.

I usually do not have problems or feel the least bit insecure during my travels... BUT  I did find it  a bit disconcerting to see two groups of young men drinking beer in the rest stop at 10.30 in the morning. Since it was a parking place, not a restaurant, I cut my stay short and got back on the rod within minutes. I am sure that the guys were harmless and would not have bothered me... just vacationers having a bit of fun.... but why take the chance especially when alcohol is involved.
Passau – a university town - is perched on a hill. Everywhere, there are steps leading upward. I tried to resist them and remain on level ground, but the sites at river level were somewhat limited. So I climbed the stairs… and I am so glad that I did.


I wandered for a couple of hours first around the town square, then in the numerous alleys and small streets. When I tired, I stopped for a cup of coffee and a bite to eat. The architecture was well worth the climb… beautiful buildings, wonderful wooden doors….
 
 
 
 

Kallmünz: almost in Munich, not quite in Regensburg

Well, it started out as a trip to Munich to attend a trade fair… the week before. But Munich is devilishly expensive and incredibly overcrowded during trade fair weeks, so I decide to stay in Regensburg (about an hour  or so away). But of course, when I check out the places to stay in Regensburg, they do not seem too inviting…. probably just my imagination.  So, with a bit more internet searching, I find what looks like a charming pension located about 25 kms north of Regensburg in Kallmünz. I assume Kallmünz is a town. I arrive quite late, it has been raining and the drive from the autobahn to Kallmünz is foggy. The roads are hilly, windy, twisty… thank goodness for my navi-system. I never would have found this place without it.  Finally I see the sign, turn left and drive over the bridge as instructed… and as the voice on my navi says - "You have arrived”.  Really??? Where? I see two cars parked on one side of this tiny narrow street and a small nondescript,  totally dark building on the other. So I drive on… well not really drive, more like roll on. The street is narrow and only goes for another block. The entire town… oops, I should say ‘village’… seems to be no more than 4 interconnecting, windy streets - in total. Finally after making 3 complete circles around the enclave, I stop the car get out and walk around. My navi was right I “have arrived”. I park the car and approach the darkened house. I ring the bell, lights come on and a woman answers the door and thus begins my Kallmünz adventure. Well, to be honest, it actually started the next day when the sun comes up and I can see all that this adorable little village has to offer.

                     My pension in Kallmünz ... notice sign leaning on the building ( at the back of the trailer)

The view directly across the street from my pension.... actually I think I was standing in the same spot when I took this and the previous photo.

                                                              Another view of Kallmünz 
  
For more photos of Kallmünz , please be sure to check out Pinterest... Roaming-thru-Europe.
According to Wiki, the municipality of Kallmünz has more than 2000 residents and stretches over 169 klms (or 169 people per sq mile). What Wiki does not mention is that there are a zillion more trees and rocks than people. The landscape is absolutely beautiful. But drive out of the very small village and that is all you will see … there seems to not be a soul around. But that is deceiving. There are bicyclists, hikers and even small camping grounds … hidden in the hills. And the next village over (about a ten minute drive) even has a small general store, a Greek restaurant AND a beer garden. Everyone seems to ‘have just enough English’ to ask a few questions in order to make you feel at home... but not enough to be intrusive.   

The beautiful blue Danube


I took a river cruise on the river which Johann Strauss made so famous… the beautiful Danube (or Donau as it is called in Europe). The river is everything I expected it to be romantic, quiet, meandering from town to town and a deep, deep, midnight blue in color. (I suspect the reflection of the trees and rocks trees which lined its banks had something to do with its color.)

Monday, June 17, 2013

Experiences of a woman travelling alone... by car in Europe


Well today is the first day of the rest of my life…. as the saying goes.
Today, I officially set forth on my quest to get sponsorship for this blog and for my efforts to launch a travel service which is dedicated to serving the needs of baby boomer travelers to Europe... especially women who want to travel alone, in pairs or without a male escort.   

As my readers know… I love to travel alone in Europe … in my car. I am careful about where I go and what I do … but essentially it is safe.  Luckily, I have not had any bad experiences yet!!
Ok, ok… several years ago, while I was driving my hot little Alfa convertible (cabriolet) near Chablis* in France, I was followed by a car load of guys…  But that was a different time, a different ‘me’ and a different car… not my staid, Peugeot fortress… AND that was well before navigation systems, mobile phones and wifi were EVERYWHERE!!  *Believe it or not Chablis is not just a wine... but a real town!!

With a GPS-equipped car as well as Wifi - equipped IPAD or smart phone and utilizing Hotspots in restaurants (like McDonalds) and small hotels with Wifi in the rooms… we can go wherever we chose without fear. 
Of course, 4 or 5 years ago, there was my Christmas Eve incident at the Notre Dame cathedral in Paris.  The new car I ordered had not arrived, so the Peugeot dealer lent me a car.  I immediately drove to Paris for the Christmas holiday.  What a trip... early Christmas Eve driving down a street and having the Eiffel Tower suddenly peering down at me over some neighborhood buildings.  Early Christmas morning driving – like a crazy person – around and around the Arc de Triomphe… merely because I could!!  There wasn’t a single bit of traffic, nary a car on the street, not a car on the Champs-Elysee or even on the boulevard which encircles the Arc… I was TOTALLY alone and having the ball of my life. 

But there WAS the small incident the night before at the Cathedral.  I had driven to the midnight mass, parked my car.. and was ABSOLUTELY  sure it would not be difficult to retrace my steps to get back to my hotel which was one street over from the Champs Elysee (trust me… the hotel was not as grand as it sounds!). At any rate, somehow I got turned around and then a ‘bit’ lost. The loaner car did not have a navigation system.. so I drove and drove (not to worry, the car doors were locked, the heating system worked, I had food, drink and my tunes…  so all was good!!!) So after leaving the mass at 1.00 am, I ended up driving around Paris for a couple of hours.  Finally I saw a police station and stopped to ask for directions back to Paris.  The policewoman – said in the typical haughty French way - ‘You are in Paris!!’ And then she told me to just get back into my car and drive straight ahead!! I did as she instructed, but after a half hour or so, it occurred to me to just stop the first taxi cab that I saw and ask him to lead me back to the hotel.  I did just that and the driver was somewhat amused at my plight… but he led me all the way back to my hotel… without charging me!!   I arried at 3am!! The next day I did the Arc de Triomphe and then drove to Picardy… if you ever want the ultimate experience in an upscale beach location.. check out this place. Wonderful in winter, must be absolutely fantastic in summer!!

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Straußwirtschaft, kleinigkeiten… a couple of German words you absolutely must know!!

In Germany, there is a well-kept secret known – probably – only to the locals in the region. June is the month that not only escorts in the wine festival season and is dedicated to sampling the fares of the vintners along the Rhine and Mosel rivers and on the wine road in Germany.

Wine festivals: Once a year, each wine producing town or village has a weekend-long wine festival at which the local producers present/sell their wines. For the villagers and townspeople, it is a time to meet friends and neighbors, and for others it is time to partake of the local wine. The wine is sold by the glass which allows visitors to identify the wine(s) which specifically meets their taste.  Real wine ‘aficiandos’ (read: drinkers!!) bring their own wine glass attached to a leather strap worn around the neck.  Have glass, will travel….and drink!!  These ‘wine glass necklaces’ are also particularly handy when you are strolling from vineyard-to-vineyard and want to take a glass or bottle of wine with you. 

 

 
 
Local vineyards: In June, you can also visit a Straußwirtschaft or two. Each year for a 6 week period of time - the local authorities allow the vintners to open their premises to the public and not only sell their wine but also set up a few tables in their courtyards and offer a little something to eat (a ‘kleinigkeiten’- simple, regional cold dishes or finger food).
The newly-installed tables are always full. In wine country, it is a favorite past time to walk or drive to your favorite vintner’s for a glass of wine and a bite to eat. Of course, after eating, if you have brought your car, you can always load the trunk of your car with a case or two or your favorite wine.
 
Once while visiting a vintner, I admired the sketch of a rather elderly woman wearing a bonnet which adorned the logo on his wine bottle. The vintner explained to me that the drawing was of his mother. ( looking at the image and the bonnet, I thought I had misunderstood him and it was his grand or great-grand mother!!) As the conversation continued, a little old lady (sans bonnet, but looking as old as the hills) toddled out of the house. The vintner called her over in order to introduce us. As she got closer I could see that the portrait was a true likeness.

The next 20 years...

I’m an American baby boomer… been there, done that... accomplished most of the big things in life ... some successfully, others not so successfully.

Now, I want the next 20 years to be filled with the little things in life…, the touch of his hand upon mine, a whiff of his cologne, the twinkle in his eyes when he sees me.

I want to stand in front of him…lean back and feel that special little niche in the well of his shoulder where I just fit, where I belong…

20 years from now, I want to be able to look back at our history…