Straußwirtschaft, kleinigkeiten… a couple of German words you absolutely must know!!

In Germany, there is a well-kept secret known – probably – only to the locals in the region. June is the month that not only escorts in the wine festival season and is dedicated to sampling the fares of the vintners along the Rhine and Mosel rivers and on the wine road in Germany.

Wine festivals: Once a year, each wine producing town or village has a weekend-long wine festival at which the local producers present/sell their wines. For the villagers and townspeople, it is a time to meet friends and neighbors, and for others it is time to partake of the local wine. The wine is sold by the glass which allows visitors to identify the wine(s) which specifically meets their taste.  Real wine ‘aficiandos’ (read: drinkers!!) bring their own wine glass attached to a leather strap worn around the neck.  Have glass, will travel….and drink!!  These ‘wine glass necklaces’ are also particularly handy when you are strolling from vineyard-to-vineyard and want to take a glass or bottle of wine with you. 

 

 

 

Local vineyards: In June, you can also visit a Straußwirtschaft or two. Each year for a 6 week period of time - the local authorities allow the vintners to open their premises to the public and not only sell their wine but also set up a few tables in their courtyards and offer a little something to eat (a ‘kleinigkeiten’- simple, regional cold dishes or finger food).

The newly-installed tables are always full. In wine country, it is a favorite past time to walk or drive to your favorite vintner’s for a glass of wine and a bite to eat. Of course, after eating, if you have brought your car, you can always load the trunk of your car with a case or two or your favorite wine.

 

Once while visiting a vintner, I admired the sketch of a rather elderly woman wearing a bonnet which adorned the logo on his wine bottle. The vintner explained to me that the drawing was of his mother. ( looking at the image and the bonnet, I thought I had misunderstood him and it was his grand or great-grand mother!!) As the conversation continued, a little old lady (sans bonnet, but looking as old as the hills) toddled out of the house. The vintner called her over in order to introduce us. As she got closer I could see that the portrait was a true likeness.

Returning to the Rheingau

Well, I have not blogged for a few days. I have been ‘unterwegs’ (on the road) as we say here in Germany.

First, I drove from the Fichtelgebirge mountain region back to the Rheingau.  I still have not finished exploring the romantic side of the Rhine from Wiesbaden to Koblenz. I was hoping that I could do so when the sun was shining so that I could get some good photos. But that was not to be. Mid –March is still quite grey in the middle Rhein region.

Pinterest - Roaming - Bavaria Fichtelgebirg Natural Park Visited mid-Mar

At any rate, I decided to stay in Walluf (again!!)  … which is the gateway to the romantic side of the Rhinegau. I really like this little town. The houses are cute, the people are friendly, the town is very comfortable and when you need a big city Wiesbaden is close by. I stayed in a really cute little hotel (Zum neuen Schwan – the new swan). I saw on the internet that they had ‘small’ rooms at 48€ per night, so I sent them an email… no response. Then I decided to book through one of the online hotel booking services at 58€ per night for a larger room… without breakfast!! (I never do breakfast.. why should I spend the extra money for a couple of Brötchen (rolls), some butter and a small cup or two of coffee.   Instead, I just buy stuff to eat in my room or I stop somewhere to get a bite. )

If you are looking for an adorable, yet reasonable priced place to stay, I can highly recommend the zum Neuen Schwan.  It is furnished with antiques and it overlooks the Rhine. I could see the river from my room!! (Very pretty on a rainy night watching the ‘twinkling’ barges moving up and down the river.) If you want a closer look - sitting directly on the river - you can have dinner at the restaurant across the street . It is owned by the brother of the hotel proprietor. 

Zum Neuen Schwann

If you are looking for a place a bit cheaper (around 50€ per night) , try the Lok-inn pension / hotel. This place as I mentioned in an earlier blog is in the old railway station… Yes, the station is still active… trains roll past fairly frequently. But thankfully, you cannot hear or feel them as they roll past. Frau Burkhardt – the proprietress – recommended that – instead of opening the window for fresh air - I turn on this little air conditioner thing which is in the wall (not really like our air conditioners.. this simply brings in fresh air). The inn is still being renovated, so the entrance is a bit difficult to find and looks a bit dumpy, but don’t let that deter you,  the rooms are fine. They have all been redone.

The Lok-inn Pension / hotel

Walluf ... a pleasant surprise

I am staying in this small hotel for 2 nights. I booked it on the internet which did NOT mention that the hotel was located IN (not ‘near’ or ‘at’) the train station. I selected it because it was at the top of my current price range (50€), it looked ‘cute’ and most importantly, it was near my target destination - Eltville. I had never even heard of this place called Walluf - but what a pleasant surprise.

After driving around trying to find number 11 Bahnhofstrasse* – even using my navigation system - it was difficult to find. I had to actually get out of the car and walk around.  Then and only then did I realize it was located over top of the train station!! I rang the bell, opened the door and was immediately confronted with a long flight of stairs which I knew there was no way I could climb with my luggage!! I was not a happy camper!! But I went to see the accommodations and was pleasantly surprised. The owners are quite friendly and the accommodations are nice. In fact, I am writing this from the breakfast room.

* German is a very descriptive language.  When a street is named Bahnhofstraße (train station street), it actually means the train station is located on that street. How clever…. Why on earth didn’t I realize that??? Oh, estrogen, estrogen wherefore art thou???

Even though the Lok-Inn is located at the train station - a very active train station - the hotel has been sound proofed so that you cannot hear the noise or even feel the vibrations of the trains.

 
And, Walluf has turned out to be quite a pleasant surprise. A cute little village, directly on the water with a number of small restaurants and picturesque houses…and of course there is a path along the water which leads directly to Eltville. Walluf is a charming alternative to Eltville expensive prices. 

Check out my website for more on Walluf.

Does this look like a train station???  It really does not feel like one. Apparentl,y because the walls are so thick, you cannot feel the vibrations and the new windows keep out the noise. (And, the new owners - when doing their renovations for the past two years have installed a machine (not an air conditoner) just some sort of machine which brings in fresh air from outside.. without the noise.

 

Lok Inn Hotel / Pension. in the train station